his-and-hers heaven Adamstown, Pa., has ale and antiques
Antiques fan and beer fanatic find love at first sight with offerings in Pennsylvania
Date published: 9/2/2006
By Katherine Shapleigh The Free Lance-Star
I YEARN for antiques.
I can't satisfy my cravings for 19th-century English china.
I long for Staffordshire teapots, cups, platters and sugar bowls sprinkled with scenes of lakes and boats, ladies and lambs.
I go weak in the knees over Depression-era needlepoint--roses in soft moss-greens, dusty pinks, faded lavenders and blues.
I dream of vintage Christmas baubles--strands of burnished mercury-glass garland; delicate ornaments from holidays long past; postcards scribbled in spidery script bearing postmarks from 1904.
I pine for pooches from the '30s, from Scottie juice glasses to boxer bookends.
My husband yearns for beer.
He can't satisfy his cravings for the perfect pint.
He longs for lager.
He goes weak in the knees over Weizen.
He dreams of Double MaiBock.
He pines for pale ale.
I feed my cravings at antiques markets and malls, and on eBay. He feeds his at microbreweries.
I'm his designated driver, and he tries to tolerate my treasure-hunting binges.
I've certainly combed the Fredericksburg region's fine offerings. One seemingly innocent vintage saucer in one downtown shop actually spawned my endless quest. As with most habits, it's always about the next score.
We've always worked hard at finding destinations that offer something for each of us, but it's not always easy. His pulse will never quicken at the sight of an antiques mall. I'll never crave Guinness.
Nirvana!
We found our perfect place in Pennsylvania Dutch country, just 31/2 hours from Fredericksburg and a comfortable distance for weekend getaways.
Adamstown, Pa., bills itself as the "Antiques Capital of the U.S.A." Good enough for me!
It's also home to Stoudt's Brewing Co., an award-winning Germany-style brewery, bakery and restaurant and an on-site antiques mall and outdoor vendors on weekends.
We couldn't get there fast enough. We made our first foray two years ago, after leaving our children to play at my sister's house. They usually travel with us, but this trip was strictly for ale and antiques connoisseurs.
We headed out of town and up toward Baltimore on a Saturday morning in early March, taking Interstate 95 to I-395 and I-495.
We branched away from beltway bustle at I-83, which led us into the rolling countryside of Pennsylvania. There's a different vibe there, thanks to the lasting imprint of early Dutch and German settlers. From city, town and street names to the bright "hex" or good luck symbols painted on barns, you can tell you've left Northern Virginia behind.
We stopped briefly in York, where I popped into an antiques center--testing my husband's patience before we even reached our destination.
Then it was on to Lancaster County and true Pennsylvania Dutch country. It snowed lightly at one point, and we enjoyed a quick glimpse of a dramatic, black buggy drawn by horses. The area is home to Amish and Mennonite communities whose residents eschew many modern conveniences.
On most weekends, vendors don't display their vintage wares until Sunday mornings at Stoudt's. So we checked into our hotel just south of Adamstown, in Lancaster, and then drove up to get our bearings.
There's not much to Adamstown. Most of the action centers around the main strip of antiques malls along Route 272.
Stoudt's is a sprawling series of buildings. Black Angus Restaurant & Brew Pub sits at the front, along with a bakery that offers strudel, pastries and loaves ranging from the usual offerings to sauerkraut rye and, of course, beer bread.
Da beers
My husband made a beeline for the brew pub, where offerings include beer-battered onion rings, beer-battered french fries and beer-battered cheese sticks.
There is healthier fare as well, such as the "Summer Bread Salad--Baby greens tossed in a pesto vinaigrette with marinated mozzarella, chunks of bread, heirloom tomatoes and served in a bread bowl."
Between the brewery and bakery, clearly it's hard to avoid beer and bread.
He perused the beer offerings, which are numerous. There are year-round basics complemented by a rotating array of seasonal options. He's so enthusiastic that he'll frequently read the descriptions to me, Miss Designated Driver, as I sip my Diet Coke. I've never been much of a beer drinker, so I don't mind.
Microbrews are painstakingly crafted by master brewers, like fine wine, so they're presented in lovingly reverent terms on menus and bottles.
He couldn't wait to taste the Blonde Double MaiBock on that chilly March day. Its description?
"A rich, full-bodied, deep golden-blonde lager. Stoudt's version of the German classic style is brewed with the finest 2-row malt and a subtle amount of noble hops. This seasonal beer is available in the spring. Pair with hearty stews, spicy dishes, & cream based desserts."
Alrighty then.
Summer brings Weizen:
"This Bavarian-style unfiltered wheat beer (Hefeweizen) is brewed with 50 percent malted wheat. The authentic German strain of yeast imparts a flavor and aroma reminiscent of cloves, bananas, and bubble gum. Traditionally, Weizen beers feature a medium body and high level of spritzy carbonation, and are served as a thirst quencher or sometimes a breakfast beer in the summer.
"Pair with salad, cheese soup & fruit deserts."
Bananas and bubble gum? Breakfast beer?!
The conversation potential is endless, as you can see.
Fall means it's time for the malty Oktoberfest.
Winter Ale is "a deep brown color with notes of chocolate and nut flavors. It has a subtle hop bitterness and chocolaty aroma. This is the perfect holiday beer."
We enjoyed a pleasant lunch and then visited a few nearby antiques malls.
We went to Lancaster Brewing Co. for dinner that night. Its Walnut Street Grille is housed in a rustic and beautiful old tobacco warehouse. The wood floors squeak and shine, and the whole place has a hip vibe.
It was "hopping" the night we were there--from the hops in the freshly brewed beer to the cheerful crowds enjoying meals. Candles glowed on tables as I soaked up every bit of the old building's detail, from the brick to the windows to the rafters.
Microbreweries and their restaurants and/or pubs are frequently based in wonderful old buildings.
Beer selections here run the full gamut as well. Current offerings include Amish Four Grain, Hop Hog IPA and Franklinfest (as in Ben) Lager.
I had an early appointment with Stoudt's weekend vendors, so we didn't linger.
We were on our way before 7 the next morning. I headed for the outdoor vendors, my husband headed inside in search of coffee.
I was absolutely delighted with the offerings and the easy negotiating. It was cold, and I didn't have much competition for the goods. I spotted an old watercolor painting, a softly rendered scene of a lake framed by trees. I hesitated long enough for the dealer to knock the price to $10. Sold.
Then I found a man selling from the back of his pickup truck. I was captivated by some old pages from an English book written by a naturalist in the late 1800s. They featured delicate, hand-painted eggs, alone or floating above nests. I knew I had found just the right gift for a close friend who was feathering her own nest for her upcoming marriage.
I bought several and the seller cut me a deal. Later, I wished I had bought even more, when I spotted the same pages in the background of decorating magazines and a Pottery Barn catalog and found them going for as much as $50 each on eBay.
The trip had been a success on all fronts.
We're back
We managed to make a second visit earlier this year, for the Stoudt's spring Extravaganza the last weekend of April. During this event, held spring, summer and fall, dealers are present Saturday and Sunday, and there's a larger turnout of sellers and buyers all along Adamstown's main road.
This time we took my father, who also enjoys antiques.
We got up painfully early that Saturday and had a quick and easy traffic-free trip. We scouted, and Dad bought an incredible old "magic lantern," an early slide projector featuring glass plates with hand-painted scenes. His feature intricate images of famous moments in U.S. history.
The men found a seat at the bar in the brewery hall, where a cheerful bartender served them several full-bodied pints. As they sipped, I set off in search of lunch. I found it at a deli counter in the back of the fest hall. What a find it was--for about $5 each, our sandwiches were piled high with roast beef and cheese and horseradish. There were also German sausages of all types topped with sauerkraut.
I was on my own at the next stops, Renninger's Antique and Flea and another outside market. I spotted a large Victorian washbowl and matching soap dish, in white ironstone. As I stood marveling at the $35 price for the pair, the buyer mistook my pause for doubt. "$25 for both," she shouted. Wow. She had me at $35.
The day wrapped up in a blur of vintage Christmas collectibles and much more, all for a song. I picked up a pair of stunning early prints, or chromolithographs (see one on cover) for $20.
We'd planned to stay at a nearby hotel, but we'd accomplished everything by afternoon. We headed home, tired but satiated, with me behind the wheel.
To reach KATHERINE SHAPLEIGH: 540/374-5461
Email: kshapleigh@freelancestar.com
If you go
STOUDT'S BREWING COMPANY:
It's time for the fall antiques Extravaganza, coming up on Saturday, Sept. 30, and Sunday, Oct. 1. It's also time for Oktoberfest and the autumn beer offerings. There's an "Oktober Fest" that same weekend, Sept. 29-Oct. 1, with oom-pah bands, pig roast and beers. Oktoberfest continues weekends through October with bands performing in the Brewery Hall.
For more information, go to stoudts.com or call 717/484-4387; Lancaster Brewing Co.: lancasterbrewing.com